A Word About the DYNO:

Many people think that the dyno is the "all knowing, almighty," last word. Nothing could be farther from the truth.

The dyno is nothing more than another shop tool. When used properly it will aid dramatically in performance improvement. However, you must realize it's limitations.

Many things will change what the dyno reads. Correction factors will not and cannot compensate. We know this, we own one and use it daily.

"My friend has the same bike as me, but his bike makes 10hp more, why is that?"

If you want to compare your bike to your friend's bike, you will need to go to the dyno together. Dyno charts that are made on different days are not always comparable. This is especially true if there were very different temperature or humidity conditions. Most completely stock motorcycles of the same model are within 2 hp of each other. I have never seen a difference greater than this barring something wrong with the bike mechanically.
For example: improperly timed cams and such.

Whenever going for a tuning session, always make a few baseline runs to see where your hp is for that day. Make your changes on the same day. Otherwise, your baseline may not be comparable with your changes and your results may be misleading. This is not always possible, but never-the-less is the most accurate way to measure changes.

When looking for accurate comparable results always warm up the engine until the OIL is at operating temperature. Make 3 to 4 pulls consecutively until the hp either repeats or drops. Then make your changes and another series of runs. At that point, compare the highest hp of each series of runs.

Always use a dyno with an exhaust gas analyzer. It will eliminate a lot of guesswork by:

• Helping to select your main jet
• To see if that "dip" or "flat spot" is either lean or rich
• To see if that "dip" or "flat spot" is caused by the pipe OR the tuning of the carbs